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Bouldering at the v10 level, what it takes to get there

Recently I was able to achieve my climbing goal last month of bouldering a v10 problem (resevoir rocks in Great Barrington, MA).  I was stoked to achieve this because of all the hard work and training I put in to accomplish this goal.  I plan to shoot a training video of the training exercises and progression routines I perform to get finger strength and total overall strength. 

I am curious to know if others train for their area of climbing (ice, trad, sport, bouldering) and what they do for their training routines.  I always like to try new ideas for endurance training as well and not just for strength.

Here is a short video (including the v10 I climbed) of the trip:

Congrats on making your goal. I dont climb, just hike and pack, im scared of heights. Cool video too!

Climbing fitness:

  • Four finger (two fingers each hand) pull ups, grasping molding above doorways.
  • Squeezing foam balls, or outdoor hand balls.  I find those metal spring and mechanical hand strength training devices are too stiff and can lead to tendonitus.
  • Attach a cord to the center of a 1 - 1.5" diameter dowel.  Attach the other end to a weight.  Grasp the dowel, one hand on each side of the cord, and wind the cord around the dowel, using it like a winch to lift the weight dangling below.  Extending your arms in front of you multiplies the difficulty.  Practice doing with hands palm side up and palm side down.
  • Walking around on tip toes, arms extended overhead.
  • Yoga stretches for flexibility.
  • Gardening without gloves to toughen you skin.
  • Lots of cycling.


Thanks for the advice!  Ill be sure to try some of those out!


Nicely sent.

Glad you reached your goal, whats next?

You inspire me to climb more this spring, right after ski season.

I tried the 4 finger pullup on the molding above the doorway. Lets just say it wasn't made to hold my weight... oops... gonna have to find somewhere else to do that one.

Ha! Yeah i have heard of people doing that before! Metal doorframes are the best for that!

September 30, 2020
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