Climbing Shoes

Featured review by Bill S

The La Sportiva Otakis climbed very well on the sandstone of Castle Rock and on the volcanic conglomerate of Pinnacles. They work well for experienced rock climbers. While I did not get a chance to climb on quartzite or limestone during the review period, the bit of foot-scuffing I did on our home quartzite front entry indicated that the Otakis will also work well on quartzite. As with all technical rock shoes, you should get them fitted by a boot and shoe fitter who is well trained in the peculiarities of high tech rock shoes.

Background At the top of the list of gear for anyone climbing on technical routes is what you wear on your feet. In my many decades of outdoor activities, I have had footwear that ranged from miserable to wonderful. I have climbed technical rock in everything from mountaineering boots to running shoes to PAs and EBs to purpose-made rock shoes, and modern approach shoes that make provision for edging and smearing (see my review of La Sportiva’s TX4 approach shoe). Much of that footwear, like these specialized Otaki rock shoes, has been single purpose, designed for a very narrow range of activities.

Read more: La Sportiva Otaki reviews (2)

Featured review by Ivan Goitia

Great shoe that is sure to help improve your climbing experience. I would never think of wearing any other climbing shoe for technical routes.

Even though it's a matter of personal preference, I'd suggest wearing them smaller than your regular climbing shoe to get the most out of the toeing and edging capabilities. They are somewhat narrow so people with wide feet might have problems finding a comfortable side, but they do stretch after a few days of use so take that into consideration when selecting a size. Also, the snug fit helps improve toeing and edging accuracy. The rubber on the soles has great grip even out of the box. Also, they smear great once you get used to the more curved shape.

Read more: La Sportiva Miura VS reviews (8)

Featured review by Sedimar

These shoes are just great for sport-climbing, boulder, and even trad climbing. I've used these guys overall and have no regrets. They're comfortable, sticky, and efficient. Since a reliable edging on routes from a powerful heel job, this shoe, if fitted correctly, can be your number one shoes. I'd recommend for every kind of climb. Seriously.

I felt that rubber stretched a lot, so I'd recommend down sizing. How much? Depends on your style and your use. I wear a 9.5 street size and bought the Miuras on 39.5 (7 US) for precise use. It is still comfortable, making me able to use at some routes (max. on 30' - 45'). When bouldering, I use to take'em off. The sole is a Vibram and super sticky. Try to maintain it clean and you won't regret. Idk about how much time it will last, but for sure one year with intense use will be the minimum.  I've used on sandstone, granite, limestone, and quartzito (in Brazil) and it last long very good.

Read more: La Sportiva Miura reviews (10)

Reviewed by Dario DiGiulio

The Oasis are a versatile slipper that can handle pretty much anything you can throw at it. I have been heavily using my pair for a few months now, and so far nothing about them has disappointed me. I've spent long days bouldering (outdoors and in) with them, used them on slabby and steep sport climbs, and even spent some time in them on longer trad routes. They have shone in all scenarios.

FIT.  These fit me perfectly, but make sure when sizing for yourself you get a size down. Once you dial in the size, they are incredibly glovelike. Unlike other downturned shoes I have tried, these are very ergonomic. I have a fairly wide forefoot, and a regular heel. The Oasis have a funny looking swedge on the outside part of the heel that actually does an excellent job of grabbing your foot and still providing room. COMFORT. Absurdly comfortable. You have to consider how incredibly technical these are, and even despite a fairly aggressive downturn, they manage to achieve an all-day-wear feel.

Read more: Tenaya Oasi review (1)

Featured review by Kevin K

Fantastic beginner shoe for anyone looking to get started. Fit tapers a little from a slightly narrowed heel to a medium-wide toebox.

These were my first pair of shoes I bought. I normally wear 12-12.5 and got a size 46, I found this too tight so I also got a pair size 47 and used those until my feet got conditioned and then I went back to size 46. What can I say about this shoe? They've stuck with me since the beginning and I've gone from climbing 5.9 to 5.11 in about nine months. They're good at pretty much everything up until 5.11s I would say. They're not the stickiest shoe, but that's all right since they stick well enough and the rubber lasts a very long time.

Read more: Scarpa Origin reviews (2)

Featured review by Mitchell

This shoe is the ferrari of 5.10. Along with the Anasazi velcro version, these two shoes dominate in terms of precision. I prefer the lace-up as it stays on my foot better when heel hooking. The lined leather insures minimum stretch, and the toebox is very aggressive, though not downturned. Combined with stealth rubber, these shoes are about as high performance as shoes get. Size down 1/2 - 1 full size for a tight, bouldery fit. I have used two pairs so far, the same size as my street shoe (10.5) and find them very precise, yet comfortable enough for a few pitches in a row or a lengthy bouldering session. They are excellent in cracks as well, but not if your toes are curled and squished! Entirely worth the price.

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Reviewed by NFN

I have a wider women's foot, this shoe fits my forefoot like a second skin. The edging is tremendous in the steeps. Due to the downturned sole, smearing is not as effective on friction. They aren't an all day wear, but after the break from belaying, I can put them on again without concern. The heel cup fits snugly. I wear the same as my street shoe.

I have a wider women's foot and this shoe fits my forefoot like a second skin. Not without a lengthy break-in period. It requires wearing them for a pitch, then taking them off for belay, then wearing again. They're now my favorites. They aren't an all day wear, but they are great when the conditions are right. Due to the downturned sole, smearing is not effective on friction. The edging is tremendous in the steeps. The heel cup fits snugly and the lacing allows a custom fit. I wear the same as my street shoe. It's a great shoe; I would recommend it to anyone looking for a little wider women's shoe than most that is available.

Read more: Scarpa Vapor review (1)

Featured review by Will

These shoes were my first ever pair of climbing shoes, and I used them exclusively in the gym. They edged extremely well and smeared great when I got them, but three months later the rubber has almost no smearing power, and I can barely edge. Good thing is I can get them resoled...However, that's the extent of the negative stuff. They hook better than every shoe I've ever tried (although I'll admit I've only tried the Anasazi, Katana, and Mythos) and the velcro straps do a fairly good job at getting it fit to your foot.

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Reviewed by Kevin K

A perfect step up from the Origin for those looking to increase their performance without getting aggressive. The fit tapers from a narrowed heel to a medium-wide toebox.

Preface: I'm mainly a gym climber, though I occasionally go outdoors. For rating reference I climb at Stronghold in Los Angeles. For about six months I climbed mainly using Scarpa Origins. I wanted to get a nicer pair of shoes to see what the fuss was about, and so I tried a pair of LS Miura Velcros for a while, but found them to be too uncomfortable and didn't fit my foot profile well. While returning them I saw something new, something exciting. In comes the Force V. I mainly wanted something that's a bit more performance oriented than the Origins, but I still wanted it to be comfortable enough to walk around the gym in as I'm a lazy bastard.

Read more: Scarpa Force V review (1)

Featured review by Evan W

These are my comfy shoes and smearing shoe. Medium last and a small heel. If you have a small heel you will like the fit.They are extremely comfortable even when fit tight, which you should do. They do stretch a lot for a synthetic shoe. After stretching an out of the box insane tight fit (you should not even be able to put them on) will become painful tight, however, a painful (yet tolerable for 2-3 problems) tight fit out of the box will become sport/bouldering tight for 5-10 routes at a time, and a comfy yet snug out of the box will will need wool socks to tighten them back up.

Read more: evolv Defy reviews (6)