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Scarpa Origin

rated 4.5 of 5 stars
photo: Scarpa Origin climbing shoe

Fantastic beginner shoe for anyone looking to get started.

Fit tapers a little from a slightly narrowed heel to a medium-wide toebox.


  • Comfortable
  • Good performance
  • Cheap
  • Durable
  • Great outdoors


  • Harder to use once you get into 5.11's
  • You'll outgrow these fast if you're bouldering
  • Proprietary rubber (Don't think anyone carries it for resole yet)

These were my first pair of shoes I bought. I normally wear 12-12.5 and got a size 46, I found this too tight so I also got a pair size 47 and used those until my feet got conditioned and then I went back to size 46.

What can I say about this shoe? They've stuck with me since the beginning and I've gone from climbing 5.9 to 5.11 in about nine months. They're good at pretty much everything up until 5.11s I would say.

  • They're not the stickiest shoe, but that's all right since they stick well enough and the rubber lasts a very long time.
  • They won't be the best in all scenarios, but with good footwork you can make them work, and that's what really makes you a better climber anyways.
  • They're not the most precise, but you can get away with it as you won't even know what precision is in the beginning.
  • They're cheap and durable enough to bang around while you learn how to not be a gumby.

Now, all that said, that's in comparison to more expensive shoes. These have the best fit, stick, and precision of all the beginner shoes I've tried (Sportiva Tarantulace and a few different styles of rental shoes), in addition to being super durable so they'll last long enough for you to learn the basics and then some.

Overall I would recommend these to any beginner (provided the shoe fits well), or anyone looking for a comfortable and easy to use gym shoe. If you want more performance but don't want to sacrifice comfort, I would highly suggest taking a look at Scarpa's Force V shoes.

I also love these for climbing outdoors as they're comfortable enough when I'm stuck standing on a move for what feels like infinity² that I don't feel like my toes are going to be sausages at the end of the day, and they do well enough on slab.

Source: bought it new
Price Paid: $80

This is an excellent introductory climbing shoe. They blend comfort with technical power and durability quite well for a beginner shoe.


  • Comfort
  • Durability
  • Ease of use


  • Not extremely technical

I climbed in them for two years, about once a week, and they held up well. They are comfortable, but still allow you to climb moderate difficulty. Excellent edge and moderate curve. The fit was excellent, with the leather upper shoe stretching slightly to match my foot. 

Source: bought it new
Price Paid: $89

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half sizes whole sizes
Price MSRP: $99.00
Current Retail: $59.99-$325.00
Historic Range: $13.96-$389.90
Reviewers Paid: $80.00-$89.00
Sizes 39 - 47 48 - 50
Weight 215 g / 7.6 oz (1/2 pair size 40)
Upper 1.8mm Suede
Midsole Nylon 1.4mm 3/4 length
Outsole Vision (5mm)
Last FFX - Flat, Slightly Asymmetric
Symmetry Slightly Asymmetric
Closure Strap
Material Leather
Sole SCARPA Vision
Price MSRP: $99.00
Current Retail: $36.00-$208.95
Historic Range: $22.00-$218.95
Sizes 35 - 42 (half sizes)
Weight 200 g / 7.1 oz (1/2 pair size 38)
Upper 1.8mm Suede
Midsole Nylon 1.4mm 3/4 length
Outsole Vision (5mm)
Last FFXW - Flat, Slightly Asymmetric
Symmetry Slightly Asymmetric
Closure Strap
Material Leather
Sole SCARPA Vision
Product Details from Scarpa »

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