Five Ten Anasazi Lace
This shoe is the ferrari of 5.10. Along with the Anasazi velcro version, these two shoes dominate in terms of precision. I prefer the lace-up as it stays on my foot better when heel hooking.
The lined leather insures minimum stretch, and the toebox is very aggressive, though not downturned. Combined with stealth rubber, these shoes are about as high performance as shoes get.
Size down 1/2 - 1 full size for a tight, bouldery fit. I have used two pairs so far, the same size as my street shoe (10.5) and find them very precise, yet comfortable enough for a few pitches in a row or a lengthy bouldering session.
They are excellent in cracks as well, but not if your toes are curled and squished! Entirely worth the price.
Materials: Stealth C4 rubber, lined leather
Use: excells at hard, steep terrain
Break-in Period: 2 routes
Price Paid: $135
I have the old pink version.
Extremely precise shoe with very sticky rubber. Excels on very small footholds but not only.
They are not comfortable, so shouldn't be normally used in multi-pitch routes. I have 1/2 size down compared to street size.
I find these shoes superior to other models I tried. So I imagine the current Anasazi Blanco is only better than the pink one. Maybe improved on the comfort side also.
This is an excellent shoe, but is not suggested for beginners.
I have had this shoe a bit now and know, and know: they hurt. I wear a size 10.5 street shoe, and I have these in 9.5, so that of course factors in, but regardless... The shoe is very good for heel hooking, smearing, anything you could imagine, but by the end of the climb you will be desperately trying to unlace them. If you simply unlace them, with half of your foot in, it is still a very good shoe, and equivalent to a beginner's shoe perhaps.
Overall, the shoe is a very good one; however, the downside is the pain.
Use: short or long climbs and bouldering (no hiking!)
Break-in Period: Several weeks - dependent on how often you climb.
Weight: Unsure - VERY light, comparatively
Price Paid: $72.18