Five Ten Anasazi VCS
Bottom line--These shoes are god's gift to every climber…
Use: bouldering, sport, traditional, multi-pitch
Break-in Period: 10 pitches
Price Paid: $70
Bottom line--These shoes are god's gift to every climber with narrow feet and a low volume heel (the womens specific model). They're the most versatile shoe I've ever worn; I've worn them bouldering, sport, trad, and multi-pitch climbing.
Once broken in, they're really comfortable too. I bought these shoes a couple months before I left for a 6 month climbing trip, and I wore them most days. Now (a year later), they are just starting to show signs of needing to be replaced/resoled. And I have to add-- even though the edges are pretty much nonexistent at this point, they still edge like the day I bought them.
Even though it can be hard to find these shoes for less than $100, it will probably save you money in the long run to buy them, because they're so versatile and durable. Enjoy!
This is by far the best climbing shoe ever made. I…
Use: Sport, trad, bouldering, everything...
Break-in Period: 2 weeks or 5-7 workout
Price Paid: $130
This is by far the best climbing shoe ever made. I have more than 10 partners who swear by them. They edge unbelievable well and are extremely comfortable since it molds to your feet. They are better for wider feet. La Sportiva is known for people with narrower feet. There is minimal stretch because of the cowdura lining. I have probably seven pairs that I've gone thru.
The only downside is the cost, $130. My friends and I have tried cheaper brands that look like the Anasazi, but the quality in stitching and rubber is unmatched. 5-ten is known to have the best rubber, stealth. And their new rubber onyx is supposedly more stickier and durable. I don't know this since I haven't tried the rubber. I've climbed for over 10 years and tried all the major brands.