Hold Reviews

6:16 p.m. on November 29, 2007 (EST)
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For those of you lucky enough to have your own indoor wall, you might enjoy the web page i've just started that reviews holds, we speak the truth and nothing but the truth, if the stuff is crap we say so.. hope its informative :P


9:16 p.m. on November 29, 2007 (EST)
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Personally, I dislike "climbing on plastic," thought I recognize its advantages (and disadvantages) for training, and for a period of time, I practiced it intensively.

If I actually owned a space for it in my home, my views might be very different.

Given my fairly extreme pre-judgments, I don't care about the supposedly finer points of the seemingly infinite designs for plastic "holds" and don't see how this topic is of much importance to exactly how you go about damaging your tendons, etc., in a gym.


12:10 p.m. on November 30, 2007 (EST)
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As is well known, the best training for any activity is the activity itself. However, except for retired folk like myself and professional climbers, most people have to resort to other training methods - weight training, running/jogging/biking for the aerobic training, and working out at climbing gyms. Although there are people who seem to really enjoy weight training, I find it extremely boring (my example of an EXTREME "sport" ;). But, if you have to do that sort of training for those few precious weekends that you can get out, you ought to get gear that is effective for the training. So I can see a place for reviews of climbing gyms (some good ones in my area, lots of really poor ones that are overcrowded substitutes for singles bars) and holds to put on your personal home climbing wall. Gym climbing sure isn't rock climbing, as people who climb "5.14" in gyms find out quickly when they get on their first real rock (often on a 5.5 that they declare must be at least 5.10). Gyms are a different technique and a different venue, but a lot of super hardmen and hardwomen I know use plastic for training between their real climbs and clearly find it beneficial to pushing their grade upward.

I assume that ntmb's reviews will discuss whether the holds are realistic and suitable for developing various skills, as well as the basic quality of workmanship. It could be a useful source of info. Then again, it could be like the majority of ego-boosting blogs and personal websites out there (geocities just sent me a threatening email to remove one of my personal websites for lack of interest, which means they must be desparate for storage space, or maybe just aren't getting enough hits to justify their charges to advertisers).

4:26 p.m. on December 1, 2007 (EST)
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Plastic is a means to an end. If you're hurting your tendons then I suggest that you climb on slopers. We don't pull on crimps too much at my house, they will hurt you.


4:26 p.m. on December 1, 2007 (EST)
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In reply to BillS

Let's put it this way, its not an ego boosting exercise for me. I've been pulling on plastic as a way to train for years and years and i've been humbled on many an occasion outside (especially on Southern Sandstone)

We don't want to get sponsored, we just want people to be informed for when they spend their money. Holds are expensive and if you're someone that has little time during the week you probably thought about building a wall. I'm in the same boat.

We'll objectively review as many holds as we can, we don't like crimps so we train as we do on mainly slopers. As we work on our technique, we'll post about it and what holds are the best for doing it.


2:06 p.m. on December 2, 2007 (EST)
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I'm in the process of replacing my 1950s era tract house (one of the "2 days from pouring the slab to moving in" style that was so popular in the 1950s) by building a new one. Barb and I gave thought to making the back wall of the house a climbing wall (it's MY house, so I can build it the way I want, right?). But a couple of realtors commented that when we move on to a nursing home in 5 or 10 years, the permanently installed climbing wall will restrict the number of potential customers by a huge amount. Besides which, the Planning Office of my Officially Liberal City (by city ordinance, and no, I'm not kidding) has Their Rules about what you can and cannot do on your property.

So the idea of a personal climbing wall was just a passing thought. And we do have close to a hundred commercial climbing gyms in the SFBay Area, some of which have multiple locations (one chain, owned by a Famous Climber, has 17 locations), plus most of our 11 REI locations (a new one just opened 2 weeks ago) have climbing walls. Some of the gyms are pretty tiny (like Twisters, about a mile from me), but some (like IronWorks or both of the Planet Granites) are huge. No real need for a personal wall.

5:53 p.m. on December 2, 2007 (EST)
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Shortly after buying our house we had to replace the staircase. At one point we had a completely open shaft through the middle of the house - about 36 feet from the basement slab clear to the ridgepole in the attic. The thought of forgoing stairs for a climbing wall did cross our minds, but we ultimately decided that one shouldn't have to rope up just to go downstairs for a midnight snack.

June 25, 2018
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