How to - belay anchor in this situation?

4:30 a.m. on July 7, 2011 (EDT)
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What would be the best way to set up a belay for a short - say, 20 ft climb on a rock crag when: 

1) Belaying someone climbing up from below 

2) Closest anchor (stout tree) is 25 ft from the rock edge 

3) No cracks or horn near the edge to set any nuts 

4) Unable to top rope this spot w/o a 50 ft length of static rope - which I don't own 

Any suggestions? I was always taught that the belay anchor should be within arms length for a safe belay - but in this case that wouldn't be possible. 

Is there a way to accomplish this safely? 

6:29 a.m. on July 7, 2011 (EDT)
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This sounds like a top rope clinic.  Find another practice face that offers a safer belay anchor and stance.  As you allude, a twenty foot rope length from the tree may stretch and pull you over the edge if your second falls.  The safest set up, with the fewest assumptions on my part, is belay from close to the tree.  It is a blind belay, but it eliminates the obvious risk of being pulled off a stance on the edge of the ledge.

I have a few other suggestions, but am not willing to describe them herein, without personally examining the physical situation.  Too many assumptions on my part to provide prudent advice.  If you can't determine a solution on your own, this forum, lacking on-the-ground evaluations, is not a good alternative for the advice you seek.


10:11 a.m. on July 7, 2011 (EDT)
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 I would think if you don't own any static, its about time you did.  If you are going out without any and have the knowledge and willingness to deal with the complications, great. But if you are going out without any because you either don't know how helpful/important it is, or just don't have any, that's not a good thing. Working with someone more experienced and knowledgeable will solve the former, spending $75 will fix the latter.  

8:38 p.m. on July 11, 2011 (EDT)
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Gotta side with Ed.  Blind belay.

And don't forget a helmet. Those rocks you kick loose can pick up momentum pretty quickly. 

A dirt bollard? Send us a pic of this project so we can help more. 

Anyway, thanks for posting something OTHER than a news story about someone falling to their death while climbing.   

12:50 p.m. on July 14, 2011 (EDT)
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A dirt Bollard ?  Where did that come from ?  Is it on the same shelf as the Sky Hook ?  I heard they work well too.

3:05 p.m. on July 14, 2011 (EDT)
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Ya I am going to take the climbing world by storm with this idea.  I just need a few volunteers to test it.  I would but someone has to survive to write the report.

May 24, 2020
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