Knife selection suggestions

7:50 p.m. on May 19, 2015 (EDT)
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Hey all,

I'm finding myself needing a good reasonable priced knife that can hold an edge. 

I'm needing one that can be easily handled for cutting lines as well as lopping off small branches (1/2" approx max), splitting small logs/branches really 2-3", scaling bark off branches like pine, shaving wood/smoothing.

A cross between a pocket and wood working knife would best describe the use for it I guess. Bush crafting/Boy Scout crafting off you will.

I need to buy this locally...

My choice of stores that are in the area I can get to are,

Harbor Freight

Lowe's

Home Depot

Dick's Sporting Goods

Academy Sporting Goods

Sportsman's Warehouse

Ace Hardware

Sears, Wal-Mart, Kmart etc etc.

Anything worth a dang at those places that will fit the bill and not be over priced for what it is?

And if you can, can you suggest two or three to choose from?

Also,  just for my own curiosity since I really don't know much about knifes. Am I asking too much from a single tool? Would two knifes make for a better choice? One for cutting lines, whittling and the small stuff and another for splitting/lopping branches, scaling bark etc?

Tia,

- chase -

8:56 p.m. on May 19, 2015 (EDT)
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There is a reason there are so many specialized knives out there. Multi-tools are popular, but the old adage "Jack of all trades, Master of none" applies to all of them.

OK, I know, the Knife Experts will leap on this comment and tell me how incredibly wrong I am, giving you a long list of their favorite "do all" knives are. Here's one thing I have found that the "Expert Knife Gurus" will say is absolute nonsense - my tiny Swiss Army Classic takes care of 90% of my everyday tasks. OTOH, as a Scoutmaster, I have twice had to use my Tinker Deluxe's pliers to do orthodontry on a backpacking trip on young Scouts who had broken a wire on their braces (when one of the wires breaks, it hs a very sharp point).

Then, there is my Spyderco Rescue Knife, for just in case I get into the "Touching the Void" situation. Or my Bowie knife, dating from the 19th Century, given to me by one of my uncles (if you don't know Bowie knives, think of Crocodile Dundee's "You call that a knife? THIS is a KNIFE").

You specify:

one that can be easily handled for cutting lines as well as lopping off small branches (1/2" approx max), splitting small logs/branches really 2-3", scaling bark off branches like pine, shaving wood/smoothing.

Cutting lines?? What kind of lines? Power lines (I sincerely hope not)? Fishing lines?

Lopping small branches? Best done with a machete.

Splitting small logs/branches? Best done with a hatchet or hand axe, depending on the size of log.

Scaling bark off branches? You want a draw knife for that.

Carving? Get a set of specialized wood carving knives and tools.

OK, my advice is to figure out what you really want to do with your tools and talk to someone doing that type of knife use.

What you will get here is a long list of "The BEST knife is (my favorite knife)". Such lists have appeared here before many times. Knives are often extremely specialized. But you might get along just fine with a basic SAK until you get a bit of experience in the field doing what you want to do with the knife.

1:20 a.m. on May 20, 2015 (EDT)
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of the stores you mentioned, i know dick's offers a pretty wide range of choices - from the simple and inexpensive to high end and more than you would ever want to spend.  

how often do you figure you will be cutting down branches and 'scaling bark?' i ask because cutting and splitting branches with a knife is pretty abusive.  you would more likely want a knife with a wider spine that has a fixed handle for that.  there would be a pretty big risk of breaking most folding knives doing that.  for pretty much everything else, something small that folds would be fine.

a couple of basic safety things.  folding knives benefit from being able to lock the blade so they don't accidentally close.  the simplest and least expensive way i have seen to lock a blade is the folding opinel knife, wood handle, metal locking ring that you twist to keep the blade in place.  there are plenty of other ways to lock a blade - liner lock that springs in underneath the blade after you open it and lock back are the most prevalent and least expensive types, & some more specialized locks that you generally find on more expensive knives.  there are plenty of swiss army knives that have at least one blade that locks.

another - a handle that has some texture so the knife is less likely to slip in your hand.  (the opinel knife's wood handle is slippery when wet, and so are many swiss arm knives, slick red plastic handle scales).  some harder handles can also be pretty slippery when new.  most slippery handles benefit from a few scrapes with fine grit sandpaper to rough them up - they don't look quite as pretty, but they work better with a little texture, in my experience. alternatively, a small strip of athletic tape on each knife scale gives some texture and leaves the handle intact after you remove it - but that can get messy on a trip.  some knife scales, whether made from plastic or some other material, come with some texture.

a small leatherman or equivalent is a nice multiple use tool, if you need and will truly use the folding pliers.  those can come in handy for some kinds of repair work.  many have at least one blade that locks and have a small (very small) saw blade.  trade-offs are that it's a little heavier than a simple folding knife, and holding one isn't quite as comfortable in your hand as most simple folding knives.  and the handle is steel, so it's going to be more slippery than a textured handle.

9:33 a.m. on May 20, 2015 (EDT)
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I have collected knives all my life. I really like carbon steel but it is harder to find all the time. Cabelas and Sportsmens Warehouse have some great knives. Anything with Benchmade on it is hard to beat. For cutting lines, a serrated edge works best.

10:15 a.m. on May 20, 2015 (EDT)
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Chase, you are going to need more than one knife to cover the wide range of tasks you have outlined.

A good carving knife is designed for finesse and to rotate in the hand well.

A knife designed to baton wood (split wood) is just the opposite in my opinion.

A knife to cut rope fast will be serrated, not good for carving or batoning.

If I was in your position (I'm not you of course):

A. I would buy a folding knife with blades that could carve and cut rope.

B. Then buy a second larger fixed blade knife that has a thick, wide blade to baton wood with.

Or, you could use a hatchet for that task, but hatchets are heavy and a lot less safe (for most people nowadays) for splitting wood than using a large knife to baton with.

...........................

I would get a quality folder in carbon steel if possible. Cheap stainless is more forgiving of abuse than cheap steel of the same thickness, but lackluster in performance.

I would get the fixed blade knife in stainless because a knife that size in a good quality carbon steel is going to be expensive (worth every penny when you can afford it). You can find a large, thick bladed stainless knife fairly easy at box stores. They seem to be quite popular these days with all the "survival" shows on TV.

1:51 p.m. on May 20, 2015 (EDT)
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As Bill said, you have listed too many uses for one knife. However, for most bushcraft, you will find that a crooked knife(which you can make from an old file) and a small sheath knife and an awl will satisfy most needs. You can build a canoe with all that plus an axe, and a lot of skill. One of my favorite sheath knives is s small Russell Green River Butcher knife. I don't use it hiking, but do have it on canoe expeditions. Folding knives, no matter how well made, are weak at the hinge and not made for any heavy work. Here is a link to a Green River Butcher knife. http://www.crazycrow.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=CCTP&Product_Code=4925-050-001&Category_Code=841-400-100

To clarify, I'm not a re enactor, I just happened on this pattern many years ago and found it useful for things like cutting cheeses or meats, short enough to be carried easily, and not pointy. The latter is only useful in a fight.

3:09 p.m. on May 20, 2015 (EDT)
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So do you want to actually do all the things you are suggesting...or do you simply want to have a knife capable of aiding you in those tasks if you chose to do them?

If you plan on making and building a lot of stuff out there then I would go with Bill's suggestions of using specialized tools and scale up as necessary. If you're like me and you mostly use your knife for eating and cooking...and only rarely split or carve wood (if I intended to do this I would bring appropriate tools)...I personally like anything with a smallish fixed carbon blade that feels good in the hand. In general they cut better...are tough (require some care)...and small enough to be worn on a belt without notice and accomplish a lot of delicate tasks. I use an old Mora with a wooden handle...but I like Erich's suggestion too and it cost about the same.

4:21 p.m. on May 20, 2015 (EDT)
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lol, Chase if I find a bunch of skinned trees and abandoned bush craft structures around here I'm blaming you by default :)

 

5:05 p.m. on May 20, 2015 (EDT)
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Patman said:

lol, Chase if I find a bunch of skinned trees and abandoned bush craft structures around here I'm blaming you by default :)

 

 

Lol - No worries, I'm not skinning any trees. Though I may leave a tripod chair frame or lashed table behind.

And thanks all for the advice so far. I do agree the right tool for the job is always best. I wish I could load a bunch of tools up but the weight would just be a tad much for me to carry I believe.

I'm doing a lot a lashing... basic stuff. Maybe a Bird feeder if I get around to it. But mostly base camp stuff. For example, stuff like this...


Roll-Up-Table-Top.jpg

Along those lines of thought. It does make life easier/more pleasant than always sitting on the ground or having the ground be the place everything goes. I really like washing a pot out and not putting it on the ground or my tent floor to dry. I like standing up to shave... or at least sit. With a basin of water right there up off the ground. I like camping,, not cave man living. Lashing this stuff together takes a bit of time but worth it to me.

I was thinking of a Sailors knife with a Marlin spike for one. And I do have a leatherman type tool but the lock for the knife has just recently given way. 

Lines - from binding twine to I'd say up to 3/8" rope, synthetic to natural. 

 

I wish I could get a Myerchin Sailors knife locally, but I don't I'll find one. But who knows...

I'll take the advice given thus far and check out what's available. And again thanks, because I don't know squat about knifes or which is better than the next, so the advice given helps a lot!

 

- chase -

5:20 p.m. on May 20, 2015 (EDT)
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So chase, are you still looking at the local stores you mentioned, or do you have the option of buying elsewhere?

That makes a huge difference in what I would recommend.

I've never noticed a Mora or Green River in home Depot.

12:08 a.m. on May 21, 2015 (EDT)
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A Mora is, hands down, the best value in knives today,even if you must order it from afar.  Other than that, look for a SAK or Leatherman.  They have worked for me for decades

4:18 p.m. on May 21, 2015 (EDT)
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based on those illustrations, I would lean pretty hard toward the following two options, and i would favor the second option:

1.  if you must have only one tool, a knife with a fixed blade that's sufficiently long to allow you to notch the pieces of wood and split them occasionally.  you can use any knife to cut the kind of rope or line used to lash things together, but notching those pieces of wood so they engage with each other better is hard work.  i wouldn't use any folding knife i have seen for that.

2. a small folding knife for the cutting tasks plus a hatchet for splitting and notching the wood and removing bark and small limbs.  a hatchet would almost certainly handle those tasks better, faster, easier and more safely than a fixed blade knife.   

7:02 p.m. on May 21, 2015 (EDT)
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Still looking locally... yeah, I know, it limits me but it's what I have to work with. 

But... that's not a permanent thing... feel free to add your choice as a preferred knife etc, but please take a look at what I can get now from the afore mentioned local stores and see what they might have I can go with and give me some options. Later I can look for something better if needed.

The only decent hatchet I found locally from what little I know about hatchet was the Esterman (sp?) over at Lowe's or Home Depot. I did see a Wood Crafters tool outlet. They don't carry knives just blanks to make your own, but they may carry hatchets. 

And perhaps the hatchet is the answer combined with the knife or knives and/or Leatherman..?

As far as fixed blades are concerned... What length fixed blade is good? Not looking to go Rambo as mentioned. So is something along the lines of a 6" Buck knife a good length or should I be leaning towards the 8"or so lengths?

- chase -

11:02 a.m. on May 22, 2015 (EDT)
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Chase, rather than a hatchet, I would seriously consider an HBC pattern axe. The weight of the head is slightly more, but the tool is much more useful and safer. As far as knives, the Russell I listed has a 4 1/2" blade, which is about as much as you want. I would also encourage you to find or make a crooked knife. It is one of the most useful tools for general bush craft. Here is a link to a site that sells traditional crooked knives. http://poleandpaddle.com/tools/crooked_knives

You will also find hoof knives listed as crooked knives. The name of the crooked knife comes, not from the curvature of the blade, as is commonly thought. Some blades have little or no curvature. The names stems from the handle which should  have a pronounced angle. The knife is held backwards from what you might ordinarily think and the knife drawn across the work toward you. Essentially a one handed draw knife.

9:21 p.m. on May 22, 2015 (EDT)
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The guys cover it pretty good so I'll mention a few name brands that have been around for a while and are proven winners but are not the latest thing going an over priced. Case on the high end, Uncle Henry and Buck. I own all three brands and they are rock star Quality and tuff. And leatherman for a multi tool Sog multi second. I use these daily and all perform. Good hunting hope you get the one you want and need    

6:10 p.m. on May 23, 2015 (EDT)
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Green River is a great company. I have new ones and old ones from before 1900. I like Case, Western, Camullus, and K-Bar also.

7:40 p.m. on June 2, 2015 (EDT)
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Check out "ESEE Knives". They cost a bit, but have a no questions asked warrantee if you break it & they're made out of quality materials. If you shop online somewhere you might be able to get one with no sales tax or shipping, possibly even on sale. I own the "Candiru" and the "Junglas", but you'd probably want one of their different models for what you're looking for. In my opinion the Candiru is too small to be functional in the woods.

9:09 a.m. on June 3, 2015 (EDT)
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Chase,

For woodcraft you need something large with some weight to it. There are lots of survival type knives now that would fit the bill. The old WWII knives are large enough for those purposes and made by K-Bar, Camullus, etc.

Please do not leave behind any of your contraptions as they no longer fit in with modern ethics.

10:51 p.m. on June 4, 2015 (EDT)
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ppine said:

Chase,

For woodcraft you need something large with some weight to it. There are lots of survival type knives now that would fit the bill. The old WWII knives are large enough for those purposes and made by K-Bar, Camullus, etc.

Please do not leave behind any of your contraptions as they no longer fit in with modern ethics.

 Just saw your post ppine...

I appreciate your suggestions on the knife selections...

6:30 a.m. on June 5, 2015 (EDT)
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What ppine is referring to (correct me if I am wrong), is "leave no trace".

Because there are some people out there with no respect for the environment shouldn't give people license to just do what they please as long as it is not as bad.

11:32 a.m. on June 5, 2015 (EDT)
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A recent article in which people were asked why they lied, gave as a common response, "because everyone else lies". Unfortunately, Chase, if you leave your creations behind, it might entice others to leave their creations behind. If you create these things, do you use hemp rope to lash or something more modern? With more and more use of a fragile environment, it is important for every person who ventures into nature, to erase evidence of their passing. What would it look like if everyone built a chair, a table, a lean-to at each camp? Soon, that camp would become a village, with failed projects, trash, etc. Most of us get into nature to leave behind, as much as possible, the signs of human existence. If you make your creations, that is your choice, but erase them when you leave. Burn them and throw the cold embers into the forest or bury them. I take canoe trips into the Yukon and northern BC each summer. Though the areas I visit are vast, and have relatively little evidence of human existence, they are still there. When I build a fire. if it is an established camp, I use the fire put that is there. If it is a one time and I build a fire place, I scatter the stones when I am done. If I find the trash of others, I make sure to pick up and carry what I can of the trash that was left behind by others. In that way, I leave the places I visit somewhat better off for my passing through, not worse.

12:16 p.m. on June 5, 2015 (EDT)
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Chase,

You have already gotten some responses about your plan to leave behind your "creations".

As ppine and Erich said, and the vast majority of us who frequent Trailspace agree, we go into the woods and hills to leave behind "civilization". If you are finding trash left behind, it is not left by what you call "modern ethiced trekkers". Trekkers, backpackers, climbers, fishermen, and most hunters follow Leave No Trace principles.

If you are leaving behind your creations, you are, in my not so humble opinion, putting yourself in the same category as "taggers" who spray paint their "marks" on the rocks, trees,and cliffs. I am sorry to have to be nasty, but I find your attitude offensive.

The vast majority of those of us who go into the woods and hills want to have those areas left so that our children, grandchildren, and great grandchildren will find the same untrammeled wilderness as we found.

Please go to the Leave No Trace website and practice the principles described there. One other way of stating our philosophy is "Take only photographs, leave only footprints". Help keep things as pristine as possible by collecting the trash you find and carrying it out to be disposed of away from the wilderness.

5:28 p.m. on June 5, 2015 (EDT)
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@ Eric - as stated, if never found the forest will swallow them up again whence they came."

No I'm not using synthetics for bindings. I'm not cutting down saplings etc. 

Actually, this week I was planting. Strawberries and transplanting wild blue berries. And caring for other edibles being choked out by poison Oak. I can put the poison Oak back if you prefer...?

I do understand your point. But... Again as stated, you don't know me well enough to state or preach ethics to.

As a rule, what I carry I'm I carry out. What I do, benefits the forest and yes, fellow woodsman/women that may happen along one of my sites.

A stack of fire wood, a grove of berries or even a tripod chair or shelter frame is a welcome site to even myself after trekking deep into the woods. A clearing even. 

If one is packing gear in, yes, I agree 100% - leave no trace. Take your crap with you. Don't cut the trees down etc etc.

The site I'm at now, I made the Trail here. Which disappears about 100 or so yards from the site. Intentionally.

When I leave, I will leave the site ready for the next trekker that may or may not happen along it.

It won't take a season or two, especially with the carpenter ants, bees, and termites to turn my contraptions" in to mulch on the forest floor.

There's not on any given day so much as a cigarette butt on the ground.

Pristine is the forest that surrounds you at my site and along my trail. Saved are trees that would have other wise died. Cleared an area to set a tent. And... contraptions you might find as useful as I did. Without taking it upon ones self to destroy the forest making it yourself. Again and again.

1:34 a.m. on June 6, 2015 (EDT)
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Chase, I certainly don't know the quality of the "contraptions" as you call them. They might have a use for you. The dichotomy here, is that you seem to dislike finding other people's left overs in the bush, yet you are willing to leave behind your creations. In my northern trips, I am often canoeing areas that have long historical use. Old cabins rotting away, and one hundred years on. Do I have an interest in these cabins left behind by trappers and prospectors? Yes. I also sometimes pass by outfitter's and hunter's modern camps. On the Pelly River in YT, I came upon one such camp. Two well built cabins. Did I like finding it? No. Wolverines and fishers had made a mess of the main cabin and the storage cabin had a leaking fuel drum in it. Next to it was what you might call, a couple of your contraptions. A table and an A frame with a tarp. The tarp had long since rotted away and littered the ground. The table had been used for cleaning fish.

I applaud your interest in bushcraft. It is fun make things from the available resources and I have done similar things over the past 50 or so years. But please consider that the next person that comes along, might not want a camp with rotting relics. If they enjoy bushcraft, let them have the joy of making things for themselves. Yesterday, I made a whisk out of diamond willow, something a Cree elder showed me how to do many years ago. I had no use for it, but the joy came from making something myself.

I ask you also to consider the animals. By leaving things behind, a table with food smells, making an established camp, you attract animals, both large and small. The old sages of bushcraft such as Colonel Whelen, hunted, but they also respected the impact they had on nature. Whelen himself came up with his Lean to because he wanted to be closer to nature and minimize his impact. 

The area where you are clearly has a lot of human evidence. How would it have been 200 years ago? Better for finding little human evidence, or worse for the lack of established camps?

I spend a lot time in very fragile environments. If I step on an alpine plant, perhaps a bit of heath, my foot might kill this plant, or it might take decades to recover.

Of course there are many, and you have evidence of this, who don't respect the environment. They leave trash, they cut live trees for firewood. But I think your reference to "trekkers" is a generalization and should not be applied to those on TS.

If you enjoy bushcraft, perhaps you should try it as necessity, such as what Richard Proeneke did. Find an available plot in Alaska, or the Canadian bush, and settle in.

I should add that the drawings you showed above, look like ones from Clyde Ormond. I have a couple of his books from when I became interested in bush craft many years ago. Knowing what I do now, I find found that a number of bush craft books, while interesting, are particularly inaccurate. I stopped taking Ormond seriously when he showed a photo of bush made moccasins and noted they were good for muskeg country.

3:19 a.m. on June 6, 2015 (EDT)
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There is a wooded conservation area not far from where I live. On days when I want to get away for just a few hours, I wander over there.... unfortunately, as bushcraft culture has taken off in the UK in the last little while, it has become littered with all sorts of contraptions, mostly failed shelters.


They serve no purpose as you are never more than 30 minutes away from some form of civilization.

9:45 a.m. on June 6, 2015 (EDT)
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Not trying to belittle you..But you made reference to termite's, bee's and carpenter ant's..How many seasons till your works disappear to the forest? Also creating a new trail for what purpose? What's the impact and you created a camp.Was it already designated camp area? I am just asking for clarification..I appreciate the removal of invasive plants and your reintroduction of the wild berries and picking up after people..I do agree and I agree with Bill's statement about Most Hunters..But there are bad user's of the resources we have in every group and it's about educating and leading by example....But could you answer these questions for me...BTW if you are taking Bushcraft seriously you should look into a Bench Made Knife..Pricey but worth while....

11:34 a.m. on June 6, 2015 (EDT)
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Good grief! All this developed from a simple inquiry about the best tools for bush craft ....He's going at it backwards.  First you get the neat tools, then you figure out what they are good for...

1:23 p.m. on June 6, 2015 (EDT)
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I remember a time in my life when I was young, and spent a lot of time in the woods in every season. I was a Forester by God, and the rules of man did not apply to me. That all changed when I grew up and got brains.

4:58 p.m. on June 6, 2015 (EDT)
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Now can we get back to the knife suggestions?

Determined not to go back up the hill empty handed I stopped ar one more store.

I found a used Buck Knife with sheath that hopefully will fit the billfor wood crafting and batoning.

It has a soft handle with 4"blade and clip in sheath. And what I felt a decent back ridge? (Thickness in the back of the blade)

Here's a few pics of it.


IMG_20150606_183300.jpg

IMG_20150606_183325.jpg

It has some writing in the Blade, don't know what it means yet. I haven't researched it find out.


IMG_20150606_183412.jpg

Paid $36 with tax for all. Good price or bad, I don't know.

Good or bad knife again, I don't know. But, someone mentioned Buck was good, my Dad had one as did many of his friends. Though they were the fancy striped handled ones with leather sheath.

This should be a good starter knife for what I'm doing I think/hope. It's dull as a butter knife right now, hence the sharpener. Hope that works to bring the edge back.

Thanks again for the suggestions.

Happy trails.

- chase -

12:16 a.m. on June 7, 2015 (EDT)
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Buck makes good knives. Basically their quality was higher when the quality of Schrade and Case dropped. I would think that for general use, the point is a bit too centered. Bush craft knives usually don't have the point as centered. I noted that your drawings were not from Clyde Ormond, but Catherine T Hammett, who wrote a number of books on camp craft, sponsored by the American Camping Association. These were intended for use by camp counselors for campers at established boys and girls camps, in the 1950's and '60s.

3:19 p.m. on June 7, 2015 (EDT)
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Erich said:

Buck makes good knives. Basically their quality was higher when the quality of Schrade and Case dropped. I would think that for general use, the point is a bit too centered. Bush craft knives usually don't have the point as centered. I noted that your drawings were not from Clyde Ormond, but Catherine T Hammett, who wrote a number of books on camp craft, sponsored by the American Camping Association. These were intended for use by camp counselors for campers at established boys and girls camps, in the 1950's and '60s.

 

Interesting about the drawings. I didn't know that and will check out both authors. I had just searched for sample drawings and that's a couple that came up.

I just downloaded a couple books from the late 1800's / early 1900's one by Sears and another author of the times. I'm looking for apdf of one by Bernard Mason " Camping and Woodcraft" that suppose to be real good.

As for the knife, I put an edge on it. It's definitely sharp as the blood on my finger attest to. Didn't even know I had nicked myself sharpening it till I saw the blood dripping off my hand. Lol.

But I totally agree the point is not what I would choose for Woodcraft but all I could find that came close.

That and I've since read though haven't confirmed yet it's suppose to have a hollow grind with a secondary bevel...? Which is really not suited for all I want to do. But that's okay. 

I did try splitting a small 2" piece of hickory. It managed it. But for that I can see the blade is not the right type grind but also really not long enough for anything bigger. There was a tool specifically designed for such work, I think it's called a "Froe". I could be wrong on the name but it's about 8-10" long with a handle at a 90° angle to the blade. Which the blade kinda reminds me a half an old time flat lawnmower blade. Apparently they don't make the froe any more, outs something you'd have to make yourself apparently. Or from what I read this far on some of these older style tools.

I'm thinking I might have done well with a diving knife (without stated edge). It's a thought anyway.

I did skin a 6 foot 1.5-2" branch with it. Worked great for that application. Peeled it right off like I would think a drawing knife would. And polished off the small knots. So I am pleased with the result in that regard. That and it should make a great steak knife. The thing is bloody sharp. 

And I'm having a relaxing day prepping sticks, Just skinning bark off them thinking about what I might make from them.

I have to find a better type lashing line though. The synthetic never holds a half hitch so I quit using it. And I really don't like the Sisal line. It loosens after time as well. I'm considering putting wax on the binding(s) to hold the knots. I don't know.

I can't find any tarred natural line. It's all nylon, which doesn't make sense to me why you'd tar nylon line. Is water proof to begin with. Anyway...

Thanks for the response.

- chase -

4:17 p.m. on June 7, 2015 (EDT)
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After posting that last post, I went back to skinning bark. Got one more stick skinned and..

The rubber handle came off. It's split down the spline of the knife handle. So much for this being a good deal. There's the rules of man for yah... What a rip off.:-$

IMG_20150607_160502.jpg

Oh, well, guess I'll make a knife handle first so it's not a total loss of hard earned money... ;-)

8:50 p.m. on June 7, 2015 (EDT)
11,737 reviewer rep
1,399 forum posts

Hi Folks!

I'm going to lock down this thread. And I would encourage us all to remember the Community Rules and Guidelines. Following are points that seem to have been violated.

1. Treat others with respect.

Listen to others’ points of view, opinions, and experiences. Refrain from rushing to judgment of any Trailspace community member or guest poster.

5. Be civil and polite.
Even if you disagree with someone (and you will), keep your differences of opinion civil and polite. You can disagree without being disagreeable. Remember, Trailspace is a community; be a positive part of it.

7. Be willing to learn.
No matter how vast your experience is, be willing to listen and learn from others.

8. Think before you submit.
Your post will remain visible long after the current discussion has ended. Consider how your words and actions will reflect on you in the future. Feeling heated about a topic or comment? Wait to cool off before posting. Or just let it go.

9. Avoid personal attacks.
Refrain from name-calling or personal digs or attacks. Do not intentionally offend or attack another person. Do not post inflammatory, derogatory, malicious, dishonest, or harassing remarks. Do not bait, troll, or taunt. Avoid sniping, snide, or insulting comments. Do not slander or hold a grudge. Do not be a jerk.

On the flip side, just because someone disagrees with you, don’t assume it’s personal. Not everyone on Trailspace will agree, but you must be civil.

10. Know when to let it go.
Not all topics and discussions on Trailspace will come to a complete and satisfactory conclusion. You do not need to pass judgment on every topic. Nor do you need to have the last word on a certain topic. Know when to move on.

18. Have fun.

Trailspace is about getting outside and enjoying the backcountry. Don’t take yourself—or anyone else here—too seriously.

Ultimately, the point is this. It is okay to disagree, as long as the disagreement remains civil. Thank you for understanding and considering this in future conversations.

October 20, 2019
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