the mother of all jackets

3:28 p.m. on November 7, 2006 (EST)

a.k.a. tightjock

ok whats the best you have ever had, ARC'TERYX.alpha,i am looking at expedition/climbing,with a budget off $400.what do you say,can you help.regards jock

8:26 p.m. on November 7, 2006 (EST)
4,429 reviewer rep
6,013 forum posts

Aside from the fact that the Alpha comes in 3 versions, and from the fact that you mention the Alpha, just saying "expedition/climbing" doesn't quite say what you have in mind. The Alpha is a wpb shell, so presumably you are asking about an outer hardshell. On an expedition, you are going to have several layers - an insulating layer like a fleece, potentially a really cold weather insulating layer (like an expedition-style down parka), maybe a belay jacket (Dolomiti being an example), something like a Schoeller or WindStopper, lots of possible jackets in the layers.

So, guessing you are looking for your wp/b hardshell and for (what level of expedition - Alaska Range, Andes, Himalaya, Antarctica, Baffin - and is it glacier, rock, ice - all are different), there are a lot of good companies with similar jackets out there, any of which would work. These days, I would consider eVent along with Goretex as the material. Wild Things makes a great eVent jacket in this category.

I mostly use a Marmot Alpinist 3 (not available anymore). Marmot has a very similar jacket. the Cerro Torre. My Alpinist 3 has served me well on a number of climbs on North American peaks, such as Denali and lesser ones like Rainier, Orizaba, various Cascade peaks in winter, and backcountry ski tours like the Tetons.

The Arc'teryx is ok (I am going to assume you mean the SV, although if you are going light and fast alpine style, as you would on Baffin, the SL might be more suited, in which case I would also consider Integral Designs' eVent jacket that is very much the same).

North Face has a very similar jacket, the Fountainhead Guide, which is stitchless and looks very interesting (haven't used one myself). My Kichatna works quite well for backcountry skiing tours, although I have gone to eVent for that type of thing. Only thing is that TNF has had its lapses in the quality area, so you need to look closely at the particular jacket.

Lots of good choices in this kind of jacket. Of course, if you are hard over on Arc'Teryx, then pick which of the 3 suits your needs, and buy it.

5:47 p.m. on November 19, 2006 (EST)

a.k.a. tightjock

hi bill, i cant thank you enough for your info,you have told me more in this reply ,than i have had in several
shops,i think i will go with a single base layer, with a single outer layer,regards

August 16, 2018
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