A quick tour through Maine and New Hampshire

9:23 p.m. on July 4, 2017 (EDT)
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We are just getting back from a wonderful celebration of our 23rd wedding anniversary and a whirlwind trip through Maine and New Hampshire.


The trip started off perfectly in Camden, Maine (a quaint fishing village) for a night in a bed and breakfast as well as a great anniversary dinner at the B&B restaurant. 

20170625_082012-300x169.jpgHowever, on arriving we found a Scottish pub right across the street.  My wonderful wife immediately cancelled our dinner reservations to allow me to partake of pretty authentic Scottish fare from my homeland at The Drouthy (Thirsty) Bear! An evening of hearty food, good beer, and good Scotch followed.


The next day it was off to Acadia National Park. We have learned over the years to maximize our enjoyment of an area by sacrificing convenience and highlights for quieter spots, so while planning we were immediately drawn to the Schoodic Woods portion of the park and the hike-in campsites there.


The area did not disappoint...we left the traffic to Bar Harbor turning right and enjoyed a quiet drive up through Winter Harbor to Schoodic Woods.  Make sure to stop in at the JM Gerrish restaurant for some really good food (and great blueberry pie!) before camp!


After settling in, we went for a tour around the Schoodic peninsula and enjoyed the cold rocky coast and great views.


After dinner at camp we decided to head back to Schoodic Point and enjoyed sunset there with a few other folks.


Our next two days, we had planned to head over to Mt Desert Island by the ferry, and then go to a local wildlife area for quieter hikes, but those plans changed as we settled into Schoodic.


Falling in love with this area and its peace and quiet, we immediately knew we would be coming back to Acadia and therefore didn't feel the need to discover every corner or face the crowds in the main portion of the National Park in the summer.


Instead, we thoroughly explored the Schoodic peninsula including taking the almost empty shuttle down to Anvil trailhead and hiking back to the camp, through the rocky hills with great views of Mt Desert Island...


and the Maine coast...



from The Anvil and Schoodic Head.  We then dropped into the beautiful woods and found bogs...


more hilltop rock outcrops...


and then more bogs with pitcher plants.


After that, we relaxed at camp for lunch and then spent the afternoon exploring the rocky coast areas and investigating the tidal pools.


This area really reminds me of the coasts of Scotland and England...the life in the pools is dramatic and colorful.



We had a wonderful and relaxing day followed by dinner at The Pickled Wrinkle (decent food and a good beer selection) and still don't regret skipping the main National Park area and saving it for next time.


We did some last minute equipment shopping in Conway NH after enjoying another night in a B&B and a hearty dinner and breakfast, before heading to the Lincoln Woods trail head in the White Mountains.


With her new ULA Ohm pack loaded up, my wife was ready for the trail!


An easy hike along the river on an old rail bed (Lincoln Woods Trail) was followed by a beautiful hike up the Franconia Brook Trail, past ponds and views of the hills we would be climbing. Our route led us to the 13 Falls and its tent site, which was an option for night one.


There were several groups at the campsite already so we gathered up water for the evening and headed up the Twin Brook Trail to look for a quiet campsite off the trail in what looked like some flat areas on the topographic map.


After much searching to get a legal site (below tree line and 200 ft from trail or stream), we settled on a flat area a little elevated from a relatively spongy saddle. We enjoyed a dinner of chicken and dumplings then a good night's rest knowing that we had already shaved a bit of the next day's climb.  The bugs weren't bad and respectfully retired at sunset.


Day two in the Whites found us climbing for an hour to the Galehead Hut...


in time to buy a piece of fresh baked Mocha Cake that fueled my wife for the climb up to South Twin.


The trail lived up to expectations - a straight line rock hop that led to some wonderful views.




Since this was our first experience in the Whites and my wife, while in great shape, was not as used to mountain trails like this, we decided to skip the out and back to North Twin and make for the Guyot campsite early enough to get a good spot.  We passed through some more great views on Guyot...



and a pretty fern forest...


before reaching the newly rearranged campsite (the site numbers below don't match the platform signs and several new platforms seem to have been built).


This turned out to be a great plan as we were the first to arrive as rain started coming down.  We chose the tent platform (10) furthest from everyone and holed up there for the next 15 hours as the rain pretty much fell continuously.  We socialized a little bit in the cooking area with a late afternoon snack, but generally kept to our private platform while the camp filled up with tired hikers.

The camp host came by and recognized the Trailspace logo on my hat.  I think this bought us instant trail-cred and she OK'd us LNT cooking at the platform in the rainstorm (no crumbs - just boiling water for tea and coffee and a boil in the bag meal) since I had a bear canister on hand. 

An evening in a tent in the rain talking and playing cards with your best friend is hard to beat! (No photos of camp as it rained consistently from mid-afternoon to the next morning.)

Our last day, we got a decent start and had a few views on the climb to Mount Bond...


although the mosquito squadrons were out in force well up to the heights...


and the top of Mount Bond was shrouded in mist.  The only disruption in a great day occurred when my wife proposed that someone else might have thought up my "Bond, Mount Bond" line prior to us reaching this peak!

I really enjoy walking through the clouds and fog, but we also wanted to take in some views.  Luckily the wind picked up and we got the best of both worlds along the Bondcliff Trail with periods of white out...


followed by breaks with incredible views.  I would put this section of trail up against any other for scenery and pure enjoyment of the terrain.  Walking along Bondcliff with the clouds rolling in and out added to the atmosphere...



and even the valley views were impressive.  I didn't have the camera out enough for the peak views but we got a good share of those as well.


Bondcliff itself was shrouded most of the time with occasional views of Franconia Ridge, but we had little company as we traversed this incredibly striking rocky terrain.


Then we began to meet the weekend crowds as we descended along Bond Brook down to the valley below.


After a steep (knee-aching) drop down Bondcliff to the Wilderness and Lincoln Woods trails, we hiked out with a couple of snack breaks.  The trip totaled 25.5 miles with some decent climbs, and my wonderful better half handled all the rocky scrambles and muddy trails and really enjoyed the trip.  We dried out in a hotel in Concord before heading back into the warm and humid south.


Like I said earlier, we will be back in the off-season some time to spend about 5 days in Acadia, and I know I will be back to really explore the White Mountains in more depth, but we couldn't have asked for a better anniversary celebration!

9:54 p.m. on July 4, 2017 (EDT)
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Nice trip

12:23 a.m. on July 5, 2017 (EDT)
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Fantastic! You got some great shots. Time well spent for sure.

10:29 a.m. on July 5, 2017 (EDT)
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Given the weather pattern for the last month or two I'd say you had it good :) Glad you didn't see rain the whole time and got out before the big storm came through a few days ago.

What was your first thought when you reached the end of the cliff and saw the vertical drop to the trail below? Mercifully I'd climbed up that wall before having to climb down so knew where the hand and footholds were. Can't imagine coming the other direction for a first experience.

Any idea who your host was at Guyot? I haven't been there yet so don't know who has the site this year.

Thanks for posting the pics! I've been to these spots enough to recognize where you were standing when you took them, but I still love to look at how pretty it is up there.

4:23 p.m. on July 5, 2017 (EDT)
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Yeah...we felt pretty lucky to get some great open views on Thursday and some patchy views on Friday...the forecast was not predicting much visibility.

The drop off Bondcliff was not too bad but I have done a few like that off trail in other areas. It looked bigger from the top, but I had approached it from the right and immediately saw the "steps" down on that side. I had warned my wife we might have to drop our packs so I think she was prepared for it. Ended up keeping them on and didn't have too much trouble.

Host was Cee I think? She was busy so I didn't chat too long. Thanks for the advice to get there early...it really helped out antisocial hikers like myself to get the quieter spot on the end to ourselves. They were packing people in on the other platforms so glad our 3p tent took up the whole space. Interesting set up...not something I am used to at all but it was a good idea to keep the climbing down to a minimum each day. Next trip will be solo so I might climb up each day and camp off trail in the valleys if it is that crowded a lot!

8:13 a.m. on July 6, 2017 (EDT)
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Nice and looks like you both enjoyed it...Whens your next trip Phil?

8:14 a.m. on July 6, 2017 (EDT)
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A fine story, wonderful photos and a big CONGRATULATIONS!

9:53 a.m. on July 10, 2017 (EDT)
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I'm so glad you got up here to Maine and New Hampshire to see some of our most beautiful spots!

11:41 a.m. on July 10, 2017 (EDT)
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Thanks folks!

Dennis...I can't spare a lot of time away from work due to this trip taking 10 days. Hopefully will get out for a weekend trip to western NC or VA higher elevations later this month if work gets me west of Raleigh on a Friday. Next planned trip is the Dolly Sods in WV late in August.

Alicia, I can see why you live up there...fantastic area! Like you suggested, we are planning a future fall trip to Acadia for at least 4 full days.

July 17, 2018
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