Shining Rock Wilderness NC

4:33 p.m. on September 23, 2017 (EDT)
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A brief report and photos from a quick trip in the Shining Rock Wilderness a week after the remnants of Hurricane Irma passed through the area...


Shining Rock Wilderness in western NC has a series of peaks running between 5 and 6,000 feet which generally means cooler nights and some wind - perfect escape this time of year.

20170914_170343-300x169.jpgIt was late afternoon when I finally had that comfortable feeling of slipping a pack on my back and beginning to walk. A great walk up the East Fork Pigeon River started the trip.  20170914_152248-300x169.jpgBear restrictions are still in place in the Shining Rock area (no lions or tigers though!).20170914_162818-300x169.jpgI got a preview of how much rain Irma had dumped here during the first couple of stream crossings - both were knee high or above and roaring downstream.

20170914_164312-300x169.jpgIn addition to the high creek crossings, Irma had left a number of blow downs to negotiate (the trail is there somewhere)...


and also covered the trail in many areas with a carpet of green leaves...I think folks heading to the western NC mountains next month for leaf watching may be disappointed!

20170914_180821-300x169.jpgAfter a steep climb up to Grassy Cove ridge you get a relief of walking along this beautiful trail. 20170914_193815-300x169.jpgThe climb was at a faster pace than I usually go due to encroaching darkness and wanting to set up my relatively new tent in the light for better practice.  I was pretty beat by the top so camped in the first decent spot with a good view in the evening (above) and morning (below).


It took a little while to dial in the pitch of my TarpTent Stratospire 1 on the slight slope (my bed area was flat but the coverage of the SS1 is so large it included a rise in terrain).  Nights like this really help me to get more familiar with the shelter and its nuances.

20170915_081512-300x169.jpgThe next morning I got moving after coffee and grits along what turned out to be the theme of the weekend - a wet and muddy trail.  My boots (although non-Goretex and easily draining) were continually soaked in the up to 4 inches of water standing or flowing over a lot of the trails. While this sounds nasty to some, it thrilled me as my weekend was going to conclude with applying for the TGO Challenge to walk across Scotland next better time to make sure I am happy with continuously wet feet!

20170915_090944-300x169.jpgI followed a trail running south under Tennent Mountain and wrapping around Graveyard Fields and after just one minor dead end, wandering down a false trail when the real one turned on a rock outcrop with a nice view...


I continued along the side slope of Black Balsam mountain until the trail turned up Tennent Mtn, where I stopped briefly to take a few photos and enjoy the scenery, but didn't dawdle as I was not alone and really wanted to wander in peace and quiet.




A short hop north toward the Shining Rock occupied me until my stomach informed me that snacks would no longer suffice and it was time for lunch!  Since I woke in a heavy dew and the outer tarp of my tent was pretty wet, I decided to lounge in the sun at Ivestor Gap and dry things out.

20170915_122421-300x169.jpgThe last couple of years I have been bringing fresh stuff for the first 24 hours or so, and enjoyed a wrap with cheese and fresh tomato (along with some bacon bits and hot sauce!).

Dried out, and satisfied, I headed for the Shining Rock with no real itinerary in mind.  After a brief stop for water at a reliable spring, I was approaching the Rock when I began to hear quite a few loud people enjoying a beautiful Friday afternoon.  That was not what I was looking for this afternoon, and I decided to circle back south and do some side trail exploring.  After darting down a mile or so on a side trail toward Daniel Boone scout camp just to check for camping areas, I decided to stay on Ivestor Trail and head for either the top of Black Balsam or a lower gap site with great views.

20170915_162642-300x169.jpgAs I passed back through Ivestor Gap the balds looked like they were about to be clouded in so I opted for a lower elevation gap camp on the trail to Birdstand Mtn with great views both north and south.

20170915_162654-300x169.jpgThe extra mile of walking was well worth the effort for a beautiful camp with the aforementioned great views of Shining Rock Ledge to the north (above) and Black Balsam and Sams Knob (in the morning sun below) to the south.

20170916_073107-300x169.jpgI don't know if it was more practice or a flatter site, but the SS1 was perfectly pitched first time tonight - very satisfying! I considered not putting up the inner bug net, but there were some seriously large beetles flying around - didn't worry me but they would wake me up!

20170916_073120-300x169.jpgI enjoyed Packit Gourmet Texas State Fair Chili and a dram of scotch (Highland Park 12 yr), along with some leftover PIG Mexican Chocolate Mousse - an extravagant meal!  20170916_042642-300x169.jpgThe night was incredible - full stars and a crescent moon.  After midnight the clouds rolled in but stayed above me - I am sure Black Balsam and the other balds were low visibility.  The cloud layer sat just above the Shining Rock ledge and with the moisture in the air created a double ringed halo around the crescent moon!  My camera phone couldn't capture it to consider carrying something better despite the weight!

Saturday morning arrived with another damp tent so I hung around camp letting it dry out a bit (the inner bug nest was dry as a bone).  Then it was back to Ivestor Gap, up the Art Loeb (with a water stop just south), and onto Cold Mountain.

20170916_113026-300x169.jpgThe Narrows north of Shining Rock and Stairs Mountain are one of my favorite sections of the Art Loeb Trail - a knife edge ridge with great (although intermittent) views west (above) and east, as well as occasional glimpses of Cold Mountain (yes - the same one from the book/movie).


On bad weather days this can be a tough hike as there isn't much shelter and there are a lot of scrambles up and down rock formations on the ridge.  I met one hiker coming the other way - trying to do the entire 30 mile Art Loeb trail in a day!!! I hope he fared well.


It took longer than anticipated to get to Deep Gap at the base of Cold Mountain and I decided to stop for lunch and fully dry the rest of my gear.  After another fresh tomato and cheese wrap or two, and a casual semi-nap, I realized it was later than I thought.  I decided to skip the summit of Cold Mountain (save it for next year!) and get going back to the Rock then head east for an early departure to the car the next day.


I was not in a big rush to get to my last camp so lingered at the Shining Rock for a while fueling up with a snack, grabbing the obligatory photos, soaking in the view, and chatting with a nice couple from Asheville who were doing a day hike loop from the same trail head on 276.



20170916_152827-300x169.jpgAfter the break I hopped east to find a good campsite close to the car.  I passed the Asheville couple and then confused them thoroughly by passing back again in the opposite direction...a habit of mine to find a campsite then walk about ten minutes further before turning back around...I really don't like waking up and hitting the trail only to find a better campsite 5 minutes down the trail!


My last camp was a well used site right beside the trail but it was peaceful and allowed an early exit so I could get home with time to spare on Sunday.


The views weren't as good from this site, but I enjoyed a home-made pasta soup dinner and the last of the Mexican Mousse followed by the last of the Highland Park 12 to celebrate a great weekend.


The drop down to the stream and parking area was short but steep (the picture above doesn't do the drop justice).  However the views kept cropping up most of the way down...


My knees were thankful for the relief from my trekking poles, and the larger flat trail along Shining Rock Creek was a great last stroll out.


Overall, I had a great trip - got to test my legs with some good climbs and drops, as well as pull 34 miles over a little more than two days hiking, and really test out my wet and muddy trail feet.  That may not be a lot to some big mileage folks, but it's enough for me especially after a start of the year battle with leg and back pain. Feeling great after that little test, I hopped home and promptly threw my hat in the ring for the TGO Challenge to cross Scotland next May.  I hope the November lottery is good to me and I get that chance!

10:04 a.m. on September 25, 2017 (EDT)
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Beautiful pics. Should like a great trip! 

11:07 a.m. on September 25, 2017 (EDT)
Joseph Renow @jrenow
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Great Trip Report Phil! much better than the work emails that preceeded it. Maybe I can get you to walk me through some of your favorite spots next spring when I'm in the area

3:15 p.m. on September 29, 2017 (EDT)
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cool Phil and sorry I wasn't able to join you

what a circuitous route..........

4:37 p.m. on September 29, 2017 (EDT)
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Hi Phil,

I enjoyed reading your Trip Report.  Perhaps we can hike sometime.  Hope you got out to Uwharrie.  We are having a 40 mile thru hike event Oct 12-15.   

I love Shining Rock Wilderness.  Couple of my friends and I did a 31 mile loop back in April.  I could not believe our good fortune with such nice weather.  

This week a friend and I hiked the Black Mt Crest.  I am putting together a trip report at the moment and I saw yours.  If you are interested, here is a link to my trip this year.

5:01 p.m. on September 29, 2017 (EDT)
Tipi Walter
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This pic reminds me of a trip I did recently on Slickrock Creek as the whole trail was blocked by such blowdowns.  It sucked!!  A Corona folding saw only does so much.

Did I spy a mini Bearvault? 

8:09 a.m. on September 30, 2017 (EDT)
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Thanks folks.

Joseph...definitely hit up a few of us for info anytime. It's a great area.

Patrick...We'll catch up next time. Once I decided not to do the full Art Loeb that weekend I just wandered...enjoyed the circuitous route even backtracking.

Soleful...I did a chunk of the Uwharrie NRT in January and plan to go back. Would love to join the thru but have commitments that weekend.

Tipi...I thought of you while negotiating one of the blowdowns...guilt crept in for not carrying a saw and doing trail maintenance! I tend to haul the BV450 or 500 on bear country trips now. It's required in Shining Rock, and allows me to camp in the open and not worry about hanging trees in other spots. Makes an OK camp stool as well.

10:09 a.m. on September 30, 2017 (EDT)
Tipi Walter
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Bearvaults do take the hassle and worry out of the equation, especially if you keep your food in your tent vestibule as I tend to do.  BUT . . . . I'd need a huge pack to load up THREE BEARVAULTS for all the food I carry on a typical trip.  That's about 7 lbs of extra weight just for the canisters. 

11:05 a.m. on September 30, 2017 (EDT)
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Your math has to be different for longer trips...mine max out at 4 or 5 days with a few exceptions. Even one BV is a weight debate each trip.

7:31 p.m. on September 30, 2017 (EDT)
Alicia MacLeay @Alicia
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Nice trip report, Phil! Thanks for sharing the pictures and taking us along on the trail.

I'm crossing my fingers for you for the TGO Challenge.

4:28 a.m. on October 2, 2017 (EDT)
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Thanks Alicia. I am counting down the weeks until I find out if I made it. Good news is you are guaranteed a slot the next year if you don't get picked out of the hat, so it's just a matter of time.

May 30, 2020
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