Arc'teryx Nozone 35

This is a great light pack for long adventure climbing. Can carry enough for the climb and a bivy or two depending on how light you go. Well thought out features make this pack more userfriendly than other lightweight alpine packs.

I have now been using this pack for a couple months.  I have only used it for rock climbing so far, but I couldn't be happier with it. I think it is the perfect size for an alpine rock and ice climbing pack. I'm still curious to see how it will work for ice climbing, but I've climbed moderate rock routes with the pack on, carried heavy loads (35+ pounds) on the approach to climbs, and even used it backpacking. 

Though I wouldn't suggest carrying more than 35 pounds in it for long approaches because of the minimal belt, the stays are robust enough to easily handle that much weight and more. Without the stays, the pack still carries quite comfortably. Even when overstuffed, the backpanel stays flat and will not barrel.

I'm not really sure why the pack has stays. I've used them once even though I didn't need to. Other than that one time, the stays have stayed in the closet. A pack this size isn't big enough to carry more than 35 or so pounds worth of gear and the backpanel is stiff enough to handle anything less.

Without the stays, the pack climbs quite comfortably. The hipbelt is thin enough to stay out of the way of a harness and the shoulder straps are comfortable with a load but soft enough, thin enough, and cut just right as not to impede arm movement. When the pack is totally overstuffed with a rope, it is tall enough, just barely, to get in the way of looking up with a helmet on. The only time that was a problem, however, was when the pack was totally full, spindrift collar extended, with a rope strapped on top.  

I think this pack is as good or better than any other alpine pack I have used.  I think this pack is every bit the equal (or maybe better) of many of the dyneema climbing packs on the market that are more expensive than this pack. At $240, it's still plenty pricy, but for a climber who wants serious mileage and performance out of their pack, this is a good option and, in my opinion, worth the money.

Pros:

- modularity (lid, frame, alpine patch, thermoformed hipbelt can be removed; a light hipbelt is included)

- carries very well heavy loads in full configuration; can be overloaded more than any alpine pack around

- good details (top compression strap, removable ice axe retainers, daisy chains)

- slim profile

- light and comfortable for climbing in "stripped" configuration

- removable alpine patch works well for carrying pointy or wet gear, shovel, wine...

Cons:

- low water resistance, especially where the fabric is single layer (lower sides); objects in the top lid pocket get wet in 15-20 minutes under rain.

- "ghost" side compression straps make carrying ski and other long gear complicate (Arc'Teryx includes two removable straps to carry ski, but the system doesn't work: straps are anyway too short and ski are not stable).

- small buckles are difficult to operate with gloves

- no antiperspiration system on the back; low comfort in summer approaches.

- fabrics are not very strong, there's better stuff on the market

- the foam pad is too thin, has to be sobstituted.

- misses an internal pocket for a water bladder and opening for hydration tubes

Summary: a specialized technical pack for winter or altitude; works well for expeditions and intensive climbing activities from a long-term camp. Too heavy as a general use alpine pack.