La Sportiva Trango Extreme
The Trango Extreme has been discontinued. If you're looking for something new, check out the best mountaineering boots for 2023.
The La Sportiva Trango Extreme is a good boot for mixed climbing where rock shoe-like precision and gymnastics are needed, but don't confuse it with an ice boot... it isn't a dedicated ice boot. There are problems that relate to the strengths of this boot for mixed.
The biggest problem with the boot is the extremely narrow heel profile compared to other mountaineering hybrids (like the Scarpa Freney XT). This is a huge problem if you plan on climbing waterfall ice because the heel of your crampon will shift around and rob frontpointing energy. To my knowledge there is no crampon on the market that will remedy this problem with exception of the Petzl Dart with Sidelock rear bails (maybe) which is a mixed crampon to start.
So to all potential users... for summer mountaineering and mixed climbing this boot can't be beat... but there are more viable alternatives if you want to climb waterfall ice.
Materials: Leather /Primaloft / Absolute Alumina
Use: waterfall ice/ mixed ice
Break-in Period: 0 hours
Weight: 2 kg
Price Paid: $140 USD
These boots are very well suited to mountaineering and ice climbing in milder conditions. They are lightly insulated so I wouldn't do serious winter climbs in them if there is any chance of an unplanned bivy.
They are very light and have a flexible ankle. The sole has some flex in the fore foot. It is stiff enough to front point up vertical ice yet forgiving on the approach. The outsole has fairly sticky rubber with no lugs around the toe ara which makes them excellent for rock climbing.
I've been wearing this boot year round for both summer mountaineering and winter day climbs and I love it. I still wear my plastics when I want to ski into climbs, but for almost everything else, the weight and comfort of this boot rules.
Materials: Synthetic and leather
Use: Mountaineering, ice climbing, mixed climbing
Break-in Period: none
Weight: 4 lbs
Price Paid: $319
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