Belay/Rappel Devices

Recent Belay/Rappel Device Reviews

Black Diamond ATC-Guide

So you have that buddy that's reaching walrus territory. I mean he is really packing on the flub, that asks you..."How bout a climb this weekend?" With the Black Diamond ATC Guide your skinny ass doesn't have to worry. Putting the brakes on the walrus.... no prob! Love you ATC Guide! Full review

Edelrid Mega Jul

+ : Blocking device, comfortable in one-pitch routes and indoor - : One more operation to do when belaying a second After a few days to get used to the blocking system, it is really great (the very first times, the lowering is a bit difficult and irregular). It is still possible to lower fast, and when rappelling, no more need of a Prussik. Nice design and lightweight. Seems quite solid even though lightweight. I am using it almost every day for three months and nothing to regret. Full review

Edelrid Mega Jul

This device does everything. I have not encountered a single situation in climbing that the Mega Jul could not handle smoothly and easily. It can and will replace basically anything else you currently use as a belay/rappel device. EASE OF USE: Everything that this device claims to do, it does. It is perfect for belaying a leader, feeding out rope effortlessly. When used for toproping, the tuber-mode is still smooth and just as simple as your ATC. Belaying a second is also very easy, and the diagrams… Full review

BMS Micro-Rack

The BMS Micro rappel rack is one of the best rappel devices for cave use. It lasts a long time due to the stainless steel construction. Not many pieces of gear last in caving. This one does. After seven years I may have to replace a bar soon. Not only does the device last, but it works very well. I have used it to rappel down countless deep cave systems, covered it in mud and sand, and it still works. Full review

Petzl Simple

A good device for flexible ropes. The Petzl Simple is a good device. I borrowed a friend's to try it out, and later acquired one of my own. It works well with flexible rope, but not with stiff rope. It handles longer rappels better than a fig. 8. One of the best things about it is that it can be left on the harness between rappels so you don't risk dropping it. Full review

Petzl Stop

Works best with flexible rope, the Stop locks down on the rope if your hand comes off the lever. Safe device with a long history of use in Europe for caving. I used the Stop in Europe to descend various caves over the course of a month. It is a good device, and allows for a free hand to clip into a belay station on rappel. This is very nice since the ropes in Europe are generally re-anchored multiple times on a rappel.   It is also fairly compact and lightweight compared to a stainless rappel rack. Full review

SMC Rigging/Descending Ring

These are nice because they cost less than stainless rap rings. I used them to rig a cave once. Rigged several rappels with these so I could retrieve the rope. You would want these if you need light weight or are on a budget and need to set up a lot of rap anchors. Full review

Sterling ATS Device

Used the ATS to rappel into several caves. This device is lightweight and well designed. It handles 11mm rope surprisingly well for what it is. Used to rappel a 120' cave drop on 11mm static rope a couple times. I'd guess it would be great for canyoneering, as it has more friction options than a standard fig. 8.   I really liked the ATS, but it does get a lot more hot on fast rappels than my stainless rack. Full review

Black Diamond ATC-Guide

Besides being quite lightweight, the ATC-Guide is a very nice evolution from the ATC. The ability to belay directly off of the anchors is so great that you will go "wow" if you have never belayed a second off of the anchors. It will lock off, and that really helps in keeping the second safe. It's easy to incorporate it into the anchor system, and it's quite easy to rappel from either double or single line rappels. Full review