Belay/Rappel Devices

Recent Belay/Rappel Device Reviews

Black Diamond ATC-Guide

So you have that buddy that's reaching walrus territory. I mean he is really packing on the flub, that asks you..."How bout a climb this weekend?" With the Black Diamond ATC Guide your skinny ass doesn't have to worry. Putting the brakes on the walrus.... no prob! Love you ATC Guide! Full review

Edelrid Mega Jul

+ : Blocking device, comfortable in one-pitch routes and indoor - : One more operation to do when belaying a second After a few days to get used to the blocking system, it is really great (the very first times, the lowering is a bit difficult and irregular). It is still possible to lower fast, and when rappelling, no more need of a Prussik. Nice design and lightweight. Seems quite solid even though lightweight. I am using it almost every day for three months and nothing to regret. Full review

Edelrid Mega Jul

This device does everything. I have not encountered a single situation in climbing that the Mega Jul could not handle smoothly and easily. It can and will replace basically anything else you currently use as a belay/rappel device. EASE OF USE: Everything that this device claims to do, it does. It is perfect for belaying a leader, feeding out rope effortlessly. When used for toproping, the tuber-mode is still smooth and just as simple as your ATC. Belaying a second is also very easy, and the diagrams… Full review

Petzl Stop

Works best with flexible rope, the Stop locks down on the rope if your hand comes off the lever. Safe device with a long history of use in Europe for caving. I used the Stop in Europe to descend various caves over the course of a month. It is a good device, and allows for a free hand to clip into a belay station on rappel. This is very nice since the ropes in Europe are generally re-anchored multiple times on a rappel.   It is also fairly compact and lightweight compared to a stainless rappel rack. Full review

Black Diamond ATC-Guide

Besides being quite lightweight, the ATC-Guide is a very nice evolution from the ATC. The ability to belay directly off of the anchors is so great that you will go "wow" if you have never belayed a second off of the anchors. It will lock off, and that really helps in keeping the second safe. It's easy to incorporate it into the anchor system, and it's quite easy to rappel from either double or single line rappels. Full review

Mammut Smart

Easy to use in a very similar way to a traditional belay plate, but with added security. I wanted an assisted braking belay device to give my wife more confidence in lead belaying. The Smart is just what I needed as it operates in a very similar way to a traditional belay plate but gives added security of assisted braking. It's very light to carry and quick and easy to set up with no moving parts to the device. The lowering and paying out action is slightly different to a plate device but not too… Full review

Rock Empire R.E. Guard II

This belay device jams only slightly while belaying a lead in the gym, but it impossible to use while belaying a second in guide mode. The jamming is so bad that I think the product is dangerous. At first glance this looked like a normal belay device that can be used in guide mode. Just about everyone makes one now, and this was half the price of the rest of the belay devices I saw in Hudy Sport near Masarykovo nadrazi in Prague 1, Czech Republic. I got it to use in Sumava and in Cesky Krumlov during… Full review

Petzl Reverso

For 7 years, I've used this for all three functions, belay, rappel, and in guide position. Love it! Except... I've used this device for at least 7 years and do love it. I've taken my time growing into it and will always have one on my harness. I love using it on multi pitches as it is a very fast switch from guide to standard belay as your climber passes.   The drawback is I don't like the release for guide position. Meaning the release when belaying up my climber and (for some reason) there is… Full review

Petzl Grigri 2

Great belay device. Ease of use:  Very easy to use. Difficult for left handers. Makes belaying more relaxing especially when the leader sepnds heaps of time falling or just hanging around. Features: Auto locking belay device. Construction and Durability: Very hard wearing. Never heard of one wearing out ever. Full review