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Historic Range: $22.95-$74.95
Reviewers Paid: $80.00
The rubber is as sticky as C4 or Onyx, although softer…
Materials: Leather upper, CTX thermo-moldable foam, HT Gryptonite rubber
Use: Bouldering, toproping, sport on steep to overhanging
Break-in Period: 2 minutes if you stick them in the oven
Weight: Under a pound
Price Paid: $80
The rubber is as sticky as C4 or Onyx, although softer (might wear faster?). The fit is comfortable, no hot spots that I've felt. The plant is medium-wide, fits the foot very nicely, but might constrict exceptionally wide plants. The edging is superior, reminiscent of the Galileo, but with quite a lot of sensitivity. Extremely aggressive asym foot puts a *ton* of power in the toe. It's unreal.
The leather takes a little bit of break-in, but the interior has the CTX foam. Stick 'em in an oven for two minutes, put them on, and they mold to your feet. Very, very, very comfortable shoes, especially for being two full sizes smaller than street. In fact, I might've been able to go a 1/2 size smaller.
In summation: my favorite shoes to date, and they seem to work well as all-around shoes, as well (or better) than my 5.10 Galileos. I would recommend them to an intermediate to advanced climber that has some foot strength, and is looking for an aggressive, super-sticky climbing shoe. Me, I don't leave home without 'em.