Camming Devices

Recent Camming Device Reviews

DMM Dragon Cam

rated 5 of 5 stars I've used Dragons for the past three years and love them. I've climbed with them on granite, limestone, quartzite and sandstone. I've done cragging with them as well as alpine climbing.  The newest version are awesome, and while the weight savings and unanodized lobes are nifty, they don't really add much except piece of mind. But these are phenomenal cams. The workmanship is superb, and I love not having to grab a draw when placing these on crack routes in particular thanks to the extendable slings. Full review

Wild Country Helium Friends

rated 5 of 5 stars These lightweight improvements on the original design for spring loaded camming devices are great for trad, alpine, and beyond. I began my trad career on Friends, so these for me are a great system to use. Overall they perform great on limestone, quartzite on granite. I am comfortable with all sizes ranges and I did find them a little tricky to get back into, but now that I am used to them again I find placements easy as ever. In large cracks their longer than average stems are definitely an asset. Full review

Rock Empire Robot Cam

rated 3 of 5 stars While these cams do not have the range per piece (or as an entire set) of BD C4s or Wild Country Friends, they are much cheaper. Robot cams are also a bit heavier than equal size of other cams. While essentially not as good a cam as its competitors, the price of Robot cams is so low that they are great for the climber on a budget. In the Czech Republic these cams retail for $25 each, regardless of size. In the US I found a set of 8 for $150 shipped. At this type of price the cash strapped climber… Full review

Black Diamond Camalot C4

rated 5 of 5 stars Still the gold standard in camming devices. Superb construction and functionality; large camming range; competitively priced — I cannot imagine a better all-round cam. Rack up with a set of C4s and your confidence will take a leap up — there is simply no better all-round cam. Great design and construction, 4 lobes for maximum grip, perfect camming angle, biggest camming range, smooth trigger action, a thumb-loop for stability when placing, pretty colours and years of on-the-job performance. Full review

CAMP Ball Nut

rated 2.5 of 5 stars Great idea... never use them though. None of my climbing partners will use these, and to be honest — I've only ever placed them out of curiosity. Because of the specific width — you are limited to finding cracks with that exact proportion for the camming-ball to fit. Realistically, any other nut will do. The wires get bent very easily, so the ball twists and turns. Great idea... never use them though. They still hang on my harness, though I often discard them when selecting gear — they're… Full review

Metolius Ultralight Fat Cam

rated 4.5 of 5 stars I love these cams. Although they are harder to contract then the BD they work great in the rock. I have all the sizes and the colour coding system make it so easy to recognize the sizes. They're as strong as any other cam out there and some off the lightest ones available. Great stuff, love Metolius gear. I bought a full spread of the ultralight cams last season and love them. Although it is the first set of cams I have owned I have used other one and researched them extensively before purchasing… Full review

Trango MaxCam

rated 2 of 5 stars These cams are adequate, but that's the best I can say for them. I bought the whole set, from .5-3 and have since taken the .5, .75, and 1 off of my standard rack. The 2 and 3 are fine, and most of the bad stuff I have to say about these cams is less of an issue with them. The 2:1 expansion range is really only an in-theory kind of thing. When they're cammed all the way down, the shape of the outer lobes makes this cam prone to getting stuck--passively. I've spent more time cleaning these cams than… Full review

Wild Country Forged Friend

rated 5 of 5 stars From South Africa. I was belaying a partner who placed a 1.5 that was about 15 years old (replaced sling) into a horizontal crack. He clipped foolishly into the protruding stem sling, and not the gunk style tie off. 4 meters further up off he goes. The cam's stem bent at 70% but did not shear. The cam itself did not budge in the crack. If it wasn't for the well engineered WC friend, he would either be dead or very seriously injured. Since then, have never worried about all the blab about rigid stems. Full review

CAMP Ball Nut

rated 4 of 5 stars These are the only gear (apart from pitons) that will go into ultra thin cracks ie smaller than a black alien. Full review

Wild Country Friends added May 30, 2016
$65 - $69
Black Diamond Camalot Ultralight added May 3, 2016
$90 - $659
Fixe Alien LITE Cam added Oct 6, 2015
Totem Basic Cam added Oct 4, 2015
Black Diamond Camalot C3 Trigger Wire Kit added Apr 1, 2015
Black Diamond Camalot X4 Offset added Jan 11, 2015
$75 - $79
Kong Gipsy Cam added May 25, 2014
user rating: 3 of 5 (1)
Rock Empire Robot Cam added Apr 12, 2014
CAMP Tricam Evo added Apr 26, 2013
$25 - $99
Black Diamond Camalot X4 added Apr 6, 2013
$75 - $359
Fixe Alien Offset Cam added Apr 6, 2013
Fixe Alien Cam added Apr 6, 2013
DMM Demon Cam added Dec 27, 2012
Black Diamond Camalot #4 Trigger Kit added Dec 15, 2012
user rating: 5 of 5 (1)
Wild Country Helium Friends added Sep 5, 2011
user rating: 5 of 5 (1)
DMM Dragon Cam added Jun 3, 2010
$49 - $74
DMM 4CU added Jun 3, 2010
Totem Cam added Feb 9, 2010
Metolius Offset Master Cam added Oct 8, 2009
$60 MSRP
Metolius Master Cam added Apr 23, 2008
$48 - $59
Metolius Ultralight Offset TCU added Oct 22, 2007
user rating: 4.5 of 5 (1)
Metolius Ultralight Fat Cam added Jul 26, 2007
$62 - $69
user rating: 4 of 5 (1)
Omega Pacific Link Cam added Jul 26, 2007
$76 - $105
Metolius Ultralight Power Cam added Jul 26, 2007
$50 - $233
Trango FlexCam added Jul 26, 2007
$49 - $52
Metolius Supercam added Jul 26, 2007
$80 - $99
Metolius Offset TCU added Jul 26, 2007
Metolius Ultralight TCU added Jul 26, 2007
$60 - $342
Trango BallNutz added Jul 26, 2007
$40 - $189
Wild Country Zero added Jul 26, 2007
user rating: 5 of 5 (1)
Wild Country Forged Friend added Jul 26, 2007
user rating: 2 of 5 (1)
Trango MaxCam added Jul 26, 2007
user rating: 5 of 5 (2)
Black Diamond Camalot C4 added Jul 24, 2007
$45 - $529
user rating: 3 of 5 (2)
CAMP Ball Nut added Jul 24, 2007
CAMP Dyneema Tricam added Jul 24, 2007
CAMP Tricam added Jul 24, 2007
$28 - $119
Black Diamond Camalot C3 added Jul 24, 2007
Black Diamond Camalot added Apr 21, 2006
$60 MSRP

In order to show you the most relevant gear, we have omitted some older, unreviewed products.

If you like, you can view the list with the older products included.